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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.